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Things have come full circle for Johor Bahru’s Jalan TanHiokNee, once a prosperous
commercial area that had fallen off the radar but is drawing the crowds againwith its
old-meets-newcharm.
Heritage Turned Hip
W o r d s :
V i v i a n C h o n g
Firefly flies to Johor
Bahru fromSubang,
Ipoh and Kuantan.
Information on flight
routes and schedules
can be found at www.
fireflyz.com.my
O
ne
of Johor Bahru’s
oldest streets, Jalan
Ta n H i o k N e e
measures just 300
metres in length and
is flanked by low
buildings sporting
ornate facades that tell of their 19th-
century origins. Named after the city’s
wealthiest merchant from that era, this
used to be a bustling commercial area
but traffic and business dwindled after
the nearby Johor Bahru checkpoint closed
down.
Many of its traditional trades and old
businesses called it a day, and the street
faded into oblivion – until the JB Chinese
Heritage Museum opened at number 46.
At its official launch in 2009, the state
government declared Jalan Tan Hiok Nee
a cultural street to preserve its history, a
significant move that has led to its rebirth
as well as that of its neighbouring streets of
Jalan Dhoby, Jalan Pahang and Jalan Trus.
On weekends, the streets are abuzz
with activities that promote Chinese
traditions and it is also here that the annual
Chingay Parade is held. No 56, a pre-war
building that was once the home of an
Indian family, was refurbished and turned
into a space for hosting cultural events.
Easily the most photographed building on
this street, it is nicknamed the Red House
for its bold red exterior.
Young upstarts began embracing the
area’s retro ambience and transformed
weathered shophouses into edgy, eclectic
cafes and boutiques. The renewed interest
in the area brought new clientele to
surviving businesses and suddenly, Jalan
Tan Hiok Nee was thriving again.
Living traditions
A name bandied around by the old timers
is Hiap Joo Bakery, where tourists now join
regular customers in lining up for their
well-loved Hainanese coconut buns and
banana cakes. Everything is made from