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Band Of Brothers
ThreeSpanishbrothersarethetremendoustalentbehindtherestaurantthathasrecently
taken the global top spot, wowing the culinary world with traditional food featuring a
modernmystique.
I
f
you ever find yourself in Girona,
Spain, with an appetite and some
money to spare, you could do no
better than booking an evening
with the Roca brothers. In fact, you
could literally do no better, because
El Celler de can Roca, the restaurant
owned and run by the three gents, has
recently been named the world’s best.
Family affair
The title is one the Roca boys were
perhaps born to claim, as the trio are
the latest in generations of culinary
enthusiasts and the offspring of a pair
of restaurateurs who passed the family
secrets to their boys. The Roca boys –
Joan, Josep and Jordi – grew up with a
passion for food, yet each developed their
own specialism, allowing them to come
together almost 30 years ago to found a
venue that would eventually become the
world’s best.
They didn’t stray too far from home
– the original restaurant was next door to
their parents’ establishment- but have since
moved to new premises slightly further
away. The location has shifted, but El Celler
de can Roca not only survives but has
risen to the top of the ranks courtesy of the
power triumvirate (group of three people
in power) of head chef Joan, sommelier
Josep and pastry chef Jean. With firm and
proud roots in Catalonia, the boys’ menu
is committed to traditional local cuisine,
albeit enhancedwithmolecular gastronomy
techniques andpresented inhighly unusual
ways. They have also been pioneers in
pushing the boundaries of food as an
experience, attracting international atten-
tion in 2013with their premier of El Somni,
a theatrical multi-sensory production that
weaved together food, music and art.
For all its theatrics and modernity, El
Celler de can Roca also preserves a familial
connection, welcome and warmth that
allows the world’s number one to be a
Hake with black olive,
‘verdo’ green onions ashes,
Mauro Zuccardi olive oil and
oregano emulsion
Preparing for service
W o r d s :
S a r a h R e e s