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their sons Airlangga, Anak Wungsu and
Marakata. While Airlangga ruled eastern
Java, Anak Wungsu oversaw Bali.
Cooler Weather
In Bedugul, central Bali, the Ulun Danu
Beratan Temple is a landmark featured
on the 50,000 Indonesian Rupiah note.
Pilgrimages and ceremonies are held
at this 17
th
Century Hindu-Buddhist
ground, and devotees worship Brahma-
Vishnu-Shiva, the main Hindu trinity,
and water goddess Dewi Danu. The
ceremonies are held for farmers to
enjoy constant water supply through the
ecologically sustainable
subak
irrigation
system, introduced in the 9
th
century.
Locals and travellers enjoy the cool
weather at Ulun Danu Beratan, meaning
“the source temple of Lake Beratan”,
surrounded by ornate temples and
mountainous terrains. Highlights in-
clude three main temples – an 11-tiered
one dedicated to the Vishnu god, seven
tiers for Brahma, and three tiers for
Shiva. Built in the lake’s shallow parts,
the temples have a floating effect when
the water levels rise – perfect for shut-
terbugs.
A sarcophagus and stone tablet,
among other megalithic artifacts, have
also been found here, symbolising that
Ulun Danu Beratan was a consecrated
site before the Hindu temples were built.
Such is Bali’s splendour, one that’s
steeped in history and spirituality.
Whatever your reasons may be to visit,
make the time to go. It is worth it.
marvel at Pura Gunung Lebah – a
majestic 8
th
Century temple said to have
been founded by a Javanese mystic
called Resi Markandeya. A sharp left
turn on the road sawme at the relatively
tranquil Penestanan village, dotted
with small hotels, guest houses, top-
notch restaurants, bakeries, cafes, art
galleries and rustic
warungs
(eateries).
Along the way, you’ll see the local folk
conducting their daily activities and
foreign travellers unwinding at food and
beverage outlets.
I enjoyed a spiritual outing at Tirtha
Empul, a sacred 9
th
Century water
temple where many people are fond
of taking a refreshing dip in the pool
with its 13 ornate spouts. Each spout
represents a particular purification
process – whether for fertility, love or
protection from malevolent spirits. You
need a guide before entering the temple.
Mount Kawi also offers spectacu-
lar landscapes, with 315 stone steps
descending to a distinctive temple,
passing through padi terraces. One
of Bali’s oldest and largest ancient
monuments, the 11
th
Century site’s
main attraction are 10
candis
(shrines)
at 8m-high, carved out of a hilly cliff
face to resemble actual statues by Kebo
Iwa. The
candis
are said to be memorials
of 11
th
Century Balinese royalty – King
Udayana, Queen Mahendradatta and
Enjoying the cool air and
splendid sights atop Mt Batur
The vast Ulun Datu
Bratan Temple is steeped
in history and folklore